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Seasonal Chicago: Tips From Bruce Sherman
June 2006
Greetings!

Welcome to the June issue of my "Seasonal Chicago" newsletter. In this issue, I offer a couple of insider market tips on the best late spring/early summer produce and meat options. I've also provided special recipes that feature some of these seasonal selections - including a savory summer salad and a whimsical cocktail perfect for a sunny afternoon on a Chicago balcony. This month's newsletter highlights one of North Pond's favorite charities - Local Harvest - as well as our Green City Market "Farm of the Month" - Kinnikinnick Farm in Caledonia, Illinois. Finally, I've included a link to Steven Shapin's insightfulNew Yorkerarticle, "Paradise Sold", which explores many of the complex social issues shaping the increasingly controversial state of organic farming.

Thank you again for considering (yet) another electronic newsletter. And I look forward to seeing you at the market!

Happy Spring!

Recipe of the Month
Walnut-Encrusted Goat Cheese, Candied Beet Salad

Serves: Six
Prep Time: 15 minutes, plus 45 min cooking time and cooling time


Ingredients:

1 lb medium red beets, 2” diameter
½ lb large yellow beets
2 ½ c water
1 c orange juice
¼ c red wine vinegar
¼ c honey

2 Tbl Apple Cider, unfiltered if possible
1 Tbl Whole Grain Mustard
1 tsp Sherry Vinegar
1 tsp Walnut Oil
¼ c Canola or Sunflower Oil
Salt and Pepper, to taste

6 oz fresh goat cheese
1 Tbl honey
1 Tbl chopped fresh herbs – Mint, Chives, Parsley
8 oz black walnut pieces, toasted and coarsely chopped

Baby Arugula

Preparation:

  • Wash red beets well, and place in small pot with water, orange juice, vinegar and honey.
  • Bring to boil then turn down to simmer and cook slowly.
  • Place another medium saucepan –full of water-- on fire to bring to boil.
  • Peel yellow beets with vegetable peeler and then cut into 2.5” long ¼” X ¼” strips.
  • When water in second pot boils, add in generous amount of salt. Place yellow beets into water and re-boil. Count 2 minutes then remove beets and place in ice water bath.
  • Check red beets after 45 minutes. When easily pierced with small paring knife or toothpick, remove them from stove and cool down in their liquid.
  • When cool, peel beets and cut into ¾” wedges around the center.
  • Whisk cider, mustard and vinegar together. Add in the two oils while whisking and season with salt and pepper. Reserve.
  • Mix goat cheese well with honey, herbs, salt and pepper. Form into 6 2” X ½” discs.
  • Encrust perimeter with crushed walnuts.
  • Place a few wedges of cooked red beets on each plate. Toss strained, cooked yellow beets with vinaigrette and season. Divide between plates.
  • Dress arugula with vinaigrette and place on plates aside cheese. Serve.

Farm of the Month
Kinnikinnick Farm

21123 Grade School Road Caledonia, IL 61011

David and Susan Cleverdon run Kinnikinnick Farm, a thirty-acre organic market garden. David has been farming their land for 11 years and produces a lovely array of vegetables including - arugula, baby lettuce mix, Italian cooking greens, chicories, heirloom tomatoes, squash, beets, garlic, and shell beans - to name but a few.

When asked why consumers should choose organic products, instead of other options, David gave the following thoughtful response:

"A lot of things, besides whether something is termed 'organic' or not, should go into our decisions about the food we purchase. Who grew it? Was it grown locally? How far has it been shipped? Is it any good? How much does it cost? Is it seasonal? My rule of thumb is that I will buy organic food if it is demonstrably better and not too much more expensive. And preferably local... If an organic crop is shipped across the country, then I think much of its organic advantage is lost to us all—in terms of energy consumption, handling costs, etc. A lousy tomato grown organically in California and shipped to Chicago is still a lousy tomato. The bottom line is that if you are concerned about the food you and your family eat, then you should get to know the farmer who produced it. And that means buying locally and seasonally - not just organically. "

Kinnikinnick produce can be purchased at both the Evanston Farmers' Market and Chicago's Green City Market.

For more information about Kinnikinnick Farm, call (815) 292-3288 or shoot David and Susan an e-mail at kinnikinnickfarm@yahoo.com.

Kinnikinnick Farm on Local Harvest's Website
"Paradise Sold"
What are you buying when you buy organic?

"For many who participated in the early phase of organic farming, its subsequent history is a story of paradise lost—or, worse, sold—in which cherished ideals have simply become part of the sales pitch.," states Steven Shapin in an article featured in the May 15 issue of theNew Yorker. Shapin details the transformation of organic farming, from an idealistic grassroots movement into yet another multimillion-dollar corporate agribusiness "niche". With Wal-Mart's decision to "go organic", the state of organic farming will likely undergo an even greater mutation, one demanding much more serious discussion. In his article, Shapin frequently cites the work of author Michael Pollan, whose wonderful and thought-provoking new bookThe Omnivore’s Dilemma: A Natural History of Four Mealshas already provoked a good deal of critical conversation on this and many of the other troubling aspects of modern agriculture and our food system as a whole.

New Yorker Magazine - "Paradise Sold"

Bruce Sherman
North Pond Restaurant - Chefs Collaborative - Green City Market
phone: (773) 477-5845