News From North Pond

November 2009

CURRENT/UPCOMING (NP) EVENTS
  • On Monday, the 16th of this month, I'll be participating in the annual culinary talent-fest that is the Food & Wine Entertaining Showcase. Held each year in the Museum of Contemporary  Art, this event - in my humble opinion - is Chicago's finest of the genre. Come out and check out the fancy victuals from more than 20 of this city's best...Entertaining Showcase
  • As a reminder to our valued guests, North Pond will be closed on Thanksgiving. We'll be open the Wednesday before and the Friday after, so make your reservations now to enjoy the turkey-free offerings we'll have for you to feast on here. We hope regardless of your plans, you'll enjoy your holiday and celebrate all the wonderful things for which we each have to be thankful.
  • Speaking of which, it's with a heavy heart that we bid adieu to longtime North Pond General Manager, Ginger Henderson, as she leaves the Midwest this week to make her future in the Pacific Northwest. Ginger's made many of you (and many of us) feel all the more special for her personal attention in the dining room and her careful and heartfelt stewardship of the wine program here on the pond. We wish her all the best and hope our paths cross in the not-so-distant future.
  • This Wednesday, Green City Market is on hiatus as they prepare for the move indoors for the winter months. Beginning Saturday, November 7, visit the market at the Peggy Notebaert Nature Museum, where there will be plenty of farmers and artisans to help you through those challenging months we face here in the Midwest. Through December 23, the market operates per usual on Wednesdays and Saturdays (though no market on November 28). For details, Green City Market.
  • Last but not least, if you're looking for some extra reading material for your free time, pick up a copy of this month's Food & Wine - the one with the big turkey on the cover - and read about my (and my family's) once-in-a-lifetime trip to the Galapagos Islands in October. Cruising With A Naturalist Cook
Tips from the Green Market
Sweet Potatoes

This month we cover the magical sweetpotato, member of the morning glory family. And, yes, from what I understand it is, in fact, one word not two, owing to its Latin name and its American tropics origin. Another surprise might be the fact that outside of North America and Australia - where we consume a minimal amount of the product - the majority of the world's sweetpotatoes are not orange, but rather white, ivory or pale yellow. It's only our obsession and preference for the associated flavors and colors of the (Great) pumpkin which cause our farms to grow the richly golden "traditional" varieties such as the Beauregard, Jewel and Garnet.
    Yams, too, I'm afraid, neither resemble nor taste anything like the sweetpotato. They tend to be way-starchier and rarely sweet. The confusion between the two traces back to a 1930s-era promotional campaign for Southern-grown tubers, which attempted to positively differentiate them from their Northeast and East coast-grown cousins.
    Regardless, the best preparation of red, gold, ivory or whatever color spud floats your boat might be the simplest: roasting then peeling them. Some of the Asian (lighter) varieties tend to be drier and more conducive to moister preparations -steaming, boiling, etc. Look for firm, dry, unblemished specimens at the market, and don't be put off by dirt on the skins: they tend to spoil at a much accelerated rate once they're washed. Here at the restaurant, we're currently serving them infused with bacon cream, under grilled American Gulf Red Snapper, roasted Brussels sprouts and glazed beets. Consider these roots beyond the syrupy, marshmallowy holiday casserole why dontcha?
Seasonal Drink
Anjou Autumn
Try this fall refresher as the leaves turn and the temperature plummets.
 
1½ oz Jameson Whiskey 
1½ oz Pear Cider or Juice
½ oz Pommeau de Normandie
½ oz Cinnamon Syrup*
optional coarsely ground dried apple chips

Pour all liquid ingredients into an ice-filled cocktail shaker, cover and shake until chilled. Strain into a chilled martini glass and garnish
with a pinch of dried apple chips.
 
*Cinnamon Syrup:
1/2 c water
1/4 c sugar
1/2 cinnamon stick, broken
3 slices orange
2 whole cloves
 ·      In heat-proof container, muddle cinnamon, orange and cloves.  Reserve.
·      Combine sugar and water. Bring to boil and pour over cinnamon mix. Cover with plastic wrap off heat and let steep 30'.  
·      Return mixture to boil, then immediately remove, cover and steep for addiional 30 minutes.  
·      Strain, chill and reserve.
Charity of the Month
MOSES
715-772-3153


Each year, we accumulate donations through our wine program for four deserving organizations. Their inclusion on our list is based on their work to help preserve diverse food choices, contribute to the local community, support local farmers, and help commit to a more sustainable future. This month we highlight yet another contender: Midwest Organic & Sustainable Education Service (MOSES).

The Midwest Organic and Sustainable Education Service (MOSES) helps farms and farmers transition from conventional to organic growing practices through conferences, starter kits, and hotlines. This educational non-profit was founded in 1999 to provide free and affordable assistance, but can only do so with outside support. Donations go toward such projects as the farmer-to-farmer mentoring program, the bi-monthly Organic Broadcaster Newspaper, and the farmer transition hotline, where organic farmers can talk to long-term veterans with questions about certification paperwork or soil building. MOSES also organizes the largest organic farming conference in the country, held each spring which brings together 2,600 organic advocates, farmers, educators and (even!) chefs. For more information, click here.
Tips from the Fish and Meat Market
Wild Pheasant

This month we highlight WILD pheasant -- definitely NOT the domesticated bird I raved about in a newsletter nearly three years ago! No. This one we're serving in all its stinky glory, smacking sharply from the natural breakdown of the truly savage meat. We get these remarkably delicious game birds from actual shooting parties who bag them off the Scottish Highlands. Honestly.

While the winged Wisconsin cousins stateside are confined to their rather limited net pens and commercial feed rations, these honest-to-goodness real-deal birdies are flying, frolicking and foraging in the wilds of the wilderness, eating nuts, berries, and other wildlife. Their musculature and body mass develop in a completely different - and leaner - way, as they're constantly on the move for the next meal or simply to protect themselves. And although they require a much closer eye in the pan to prevent tough dried out meat, they reward those who can properly oversee appropriate preparation with a succulent, rich, iron-y and gamy payback on the plate.

I can't speak for the birds available in the fields and forests in this country (for they're illegal for us to serve in a commercial establishment) but those available through the shoot-'em-on-the-farm-and-take-'em-home are surely to "real" pheasant as cooped-up chickens are to their pastured brethren: bland and rather insipid.  So find a time to come in and try the real McCoy before the end of the year, as we should have it around these parts until then!
We link here, a reprint of an article describing a little more of the strange legal maze allowing imported wild birds on the menu but not "American" wild:The Dubious Calling Card of the Wild
Recipe of the Month
Pan-Roasted Pheasant, Caramelized Apple Pan Sauce
Serves four
 
4 boneless pheasant breasts, skin-on
1 shallot, minced
1½ c ¼" diced firm apple (e.g. russet, golden delicious)
2 T cognac or brandy
1 c unfiltered apple cider
4 oz butter, cubed and chilled
3 T olive oil                
salt and pepper
1 T parsley, chopped
1 t chives, chopped
 
·    Heat 3 tablespoons olive oil in heavy pan just large enough to fit pheasant. Salt and pepper both sides of breasts and carefully place them skin side down in the very hot oil (you must wait until oil is hot).
·    When skin turns golden brown, reduce heat and cook through (on skin side only) about 10 additional minutes. Remove breasts from pan and place in warm spot to "rest" for 5-10 minutes (not in oven).
·    Place the uncleaned cooking pan back on the heat, and if necessary, drain off fat, but not the browned pheasant pieces on bottom of pan. Add in tablespoon of butter, and then minced shallots and apple pieces.  Add touch of salt and pepper and cook 2-3 minutes until a little "soft".
·    Add in the cognac and carefully flambée with a match.  
·    When flames die down, add in apple cider and scrape off bits of cooked pheasant on bottom of pan.  Reduce liquid until 2-3 tablespoons remain. Add any liquid that has accumulated around resting breasts.  Whisk in butter cube-by-cube, until none remains. Add in salt and pepper to taste, and chopped herbs.
·    Now place in the pheasant breasts to heat through and serve.

Farm of the Month
Kings Hill Farm
812.966.2518

Joel and Jai Kellum took over 850 acres of beautiful Mineral Point, Wisconsin farmland in 2008, having spent over a decade working on others' organic farms. King's Hill Farm is a full-circle sustainable operation, implementing permaculture techniques and returning to old-school farming practices, such as integrating animals into the farm cycle (for fertilizer) and even hosting bee colonies (for pollination and honey, of course!). The CSA or buying club is at the heart of their mission - providing families with affordable, wholesome food year-round, while the farm also serves as a wildlife sanctuary. Jai, a certified yoga instructor, leads a class each week for the farm crew and the Kellum family welcomes you for tours, camp outs, field trips (or volunteering). King's Hill Farm joined the Green City Market mid-season this year.
Kings Hill Farm

Autumn on the Pond


 
Yet Another Pithy Think Piece...

As we all grapple with personal traditions of cranberry preparations for the holidays, I thought this informative link might help tell a not-so-often-told story: How Stuff Works

Bruce Sherman
North Pond
773-477-5845
Green City Market
Chefs Collaborative
News From North Pond

October 2009

Current / Upcoming North Pond Events
·      Once we all regain our composure after the dramatic Olympic announcement - don't know which way it'll go at the time of writing this - it'll be back to business this month, starting with a focus on simply dinner (and brunch) until next June. Unfortunately, lunch service here on the pond has ended for the year, after an exciting and delicious run of daytime, mid-week hours. We now hope you'll all join us after the sun goes down and wish you many happy lunches until 2010.
·      Saturday, October 3rd, will find me at the beautiful Botanic Gardens in Northbrook, participating in a day-long affair, "From Farm to Fork", a symposium put on by the AIWF chapter in Chicago. It looks to be a promising agenda, with quite the impressive roster of speakers. For  more information, click here: Farm to Fork
·    October 19, here at the restaurant we'll again be hosting the second annual Ndajee fundraiser for the Women's Global Education Project. Come help honor Chicago Public Radio's Jerome McDonnell and enjoy a special performance by the Sénéké West African Percussion Ensemble. And, hey, there might be some tasty nibbles, too! For more info, click here: WGEP at North Pond and here's a link to a recent interview: Chicago Public Radio
 
News from the Green Market
Cucurbita, aka Squash

As we move into - or, rather, continue - the cooler weather and shorter days, thoughts turn to the delicious so-called winter squashes and pumpkins now coming available at the market.  Squash hail from the same family as the cucumber - hence the Latin name - but are grouped into four sub-species, three of which typically and easily grow in our (northern) hemisphere. The main differences between these winter squashes and their summer brethren are not anything botanic, but rather a simple difference in the tenderness of the flesh and time of the harvest - zucchini and other summer varieties mature sooner, etc.

While most everyone's familiar with the acorn variety - same summer variety Pepo species, which also includes delicata  - perhaps most are not so versed in some of the equally, if not more, delicious varieties in the other groups. The Marina di Chioggia (left) or the Galeuse d'Eysines, both in the Maxima group, look full of boils and warts on their outsides, yet yield dense, rich flesh upon further investigation. They're both great for risotto or raviolo, roasted and processed when fully cooked. The Winter Luxury Pie  Pumpkin (right) is the royalty at the ball. Creamy, sweet and yes, luxurious of flesh, it has the smoothest, most velvety texture imaginable, and will turn your pies and custards from ordinary to sublime.

Some other favorites here at the restaurant include the honey and chestnut-flavored Buttercup, and the versatile creamy orange Kabocha varieties. Try one or two of these relatively unknown varieties with this month's recipe and see what you think.  And taste...
 
Recipe of the Month
Sugar Pumpkin-Parmesan Gnocchi, Toasted Sage, Hazelnuts & Apples
Serves eight

2 c Pie Pumpkin puree
¾c parmesan, grated
1    egg
1/8 t nutmeg, grated
¾ c flour, sifted
salt and pepper
 
1 stick unsalted butter, cubed
16 sage leaves, fresh, finely minced
½ c toasted, chopped hazelnuts
½ c peeled, diced apple
parsley, chopped
 
·    Place the pumpkin puree in a non-stick skillet over low-medium heat and "dry-out" the mixture by periodically turning it over in the pan with a heat-proof rubber spatula.  Do this for about ten minutes, or until the mixture begins to stick to the bottom of the pan.
·    Remove the mixture to a mixing bowl and allow to come to room temperature.
·    Add in the egg, and mix it in well. Add in the grated parmesan and nutmeg, and some salt and (white) pepper and mix in to homogenize only.
·    Add in the flour and mix in carefully, until the mixture becomes tacky.  Be careful not to overmix or the gnocchi will become gummy.
·    Working on a well-floured countertop, take a baseball-sized amount of the mixture and roll it forwards and backwards with the palms of both hands, gradually applying pressure to the center and out in either direction, in order to force the mixture into a very long sausage shape. When the "tube" is approximately ¾" in diameter, stop rolling.  Now cut 1" pieces along the entire length of the tube.
·    With a well-floured thumb, carefully make a thumbprint in each piece, to make the characteristic gnocchi. Remove the pieces to a well-floured tray and reserve for later use.
·    Bring a pot of water to the boil and lightly salt the hot water. Place a skillet over very high heat on the stovetop.
·    When very hot, quickly drop the cubed butter into it the skillet (it will immediately smoke and sizzle). When all the butter has melted and browned, the sizzling will stop.  Immediately drop in the minced fresh sage.
·    Wait five seconds and drop in the chopped toasted hazelnuts.  Give the pan a shake to coat the nuts and wait ten seconds.Now drop in the cubed apples and shake the pan again.  Season with some salt and pepper and set the pan aside.
·    Now carefully slide the gnocchi in the gently simmering water.  As they begin to float, carefully strain them out and place in a serving bowl.
·    Sprinkle the chopped parsley in the warm brown butter and then top the gnocchi with the brown butter, sprinkle some shaved parmesan on top and serve immediately.
 
News from the Fish and Meat Markets
Albacore Tuna

Each July, Albacore tuna swim thousands of miles to the northwest coast of the USA, seeking cooler waters and the sustenance living therein. Later this month, they'll do the reverse commute, heading back again to the waters off Japan. While many are familiar with the heft, nobility and flavor of the esteemed Bluefin -in fact, too many, as it is currently one of the most endangered fish in the sea-many are less so with the more moderately sized yet clean and still super-flavorful Albacore species.

American-caught Albacore is a particularly good choice, too, as it's eminently affordable and most often caught by very low impact catch methods. They're among the fastest swimmers in the ocean, which makes bycatch of other species largely unlikely. And their (relatively) smaller size assures that they contain lower mercury levels than their larger, older relatives. Albacore is also the only canned variety in the US able to be labeled "white meat" -rather than the "light" of the more vulnerable skipjack tuna.

These tuna have four torpedo-shaped loins, almost resembling pork tenderloins, and as Albacore are built for speed, the species tends to be quite lean, so when cooking at home, try to keep them moist/undercooked in the center. They're quite tender and succulent when treated this way yet are quite delicious, too, treated crudo or sashimi style. We've most recently prepared and served them with Pernod-fennel puree and a confetti of sweet bell peppers. Seek them out from your local fishmonger and try for yourself.
 
Seasonal Drink
Grape Crush
In lieu of crushing your own, try quaffing one of ours
 



1 oz Death's Door Gin
1½ oz Concord grape nectar (see below)
1 mint sprig
 
Pour gin and grape nectar into ice-filled cocktail shaker, cover and shake until chilled. Pour into empty tumbler. Rub rim of tumbler with fresh mint, and finish by garnishing cocktail with entire mint sprig.
Ahhh.

Concord Grape Nectar
1 lb Concord grapes
2 oz sugar
 
Place grapes and sugar in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer slowly for 15-20 minutes, or until fruit breaks down. (Very) briefly blend with hand mixer. Cover and rest 12-24 hours in the refrigerator.
Pass through fine strainer and reserve.
 
Farm of the Month             
Burton's Maplewood Farm
812.966.2518


Tim and Angie Burton produce maple syrup from 55 acres of sugar maples in their small town in southern Indiana. It's a craft Tim had no intention of learning when he moved to the area 10 years ago save for an invitation from a friend to help with the annual sap havest. Truly a family affair now, both son and daughter participate with their spouses in the annual "sugaring", as Tim likes to call it. And as Tim really enjoys the social aspect of the business, he started an annual National Maple Syrup Festival a couple years ago to gather people from around the area (and nation) to share stories and practices to enrich the greater sugaring community. Come visit Tim and Angie at the Wednesday and Saturday markets in the park. Or, for more info, click here.
Charity of the Month
Chicago Food Policy Advisory Council 773.486.6005

The Chicago Food Policy Advisory Council was formed in 2001 to help develop responsible policies for Chicago residents, allowing them improved access to nutritionally sound and affordable food, grown in environmentally sustainable ways. The council is comprised of members from a diverse network of food-based organizations, all sharing a concern to achieve community food security in the region. For more information, click here.
 
Watch Our Garden Grow (and some park scenery, too)


  
(Yet) Another Pithy Article / Think Piece

Here's a bittersweet piece you might have missed this summer, which took me back to another time and place...Advantage, France
 
Bruce Sherman
Chef / Partner, North Pond
773.477.5845
Green City Market * Chefs Collaborative