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News From North Pond

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November 2009
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CURRENT/UPCOMING (NP) EVENTS
- On Monday, the 16th of this month, I'll be participating in the annual culinary talent-fest that is the Food & Wine Entertaining Showcase. Held each year in the Museum of Contemporary
Art, this event - in my humble opinion - is Chicago's finest of the genre. Come out and check out the fancy victuals from more than 20 of this city's best...Entertaining Showcase
- As a reminder to our valued guests, North Pond will be closed on Thanksgiving.
We'll be open the Wednesday before and the Friday after, so make your reservations now to enjoy the turkey-free offerings we'll have for you to feast on here. We hope regardless of your plans, you'll enjoy your holiday and celebrate all the wonderful things for which we each have to be thankful.
- Speaking of which, it's with a heavy heart that we bid adieu to longtime North Pond General Manager, Ginger Henderson, as she leaves the Midwest this week to make her future in the Pacific Northwest. Ginger's made many of you (and many of us) feel all the more special for her personal attention in the dining room and her careful and heartfelt stewardship of the wine program here on the pond. We wish her all the best and hope our paths cross in the not-so-distant future.
- This Wednesday, Green City Market is on hiatus as they prepare for the move indoors for the winter months. Beginning Saturday, November 7, visit the market at the Peggy Notebaert
Nature Museum, where there will be plenty of farmers and artisans to help you through those challenging months we face here in the Midwest. Through December 23, the market operates per usual on Wednesdays and Saturdays (though no market on November 28). For details, Green City Market.
- Last but not least, if you're looking for some extra reading material for your free time, pick up a copy of this month's Food & Wine - the one with the big turkey on the cover - and read about my (and my family's) once-in-a-lifetime trip to the Galapagos Islands in October. Cruising With A Naturalist Cook
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Tips from the Green Market
Sweet Potatoes
This month we cover the magical sweetpotato, member of the morning glory family. And, yes, from what I understand it is, in fact, one word not two, owing to its Latin name and its American tropics origin. Another surprise might be the fact that outside of North America and Australia - where we consume a minimal amount of the product - the majority of the world's sweetpotatoes are not orange, but rather white, ivory or pale yellow. It's only our obsession and preference for the associated flavors and colors of the (Great) pumpkin which cause our farms to grow the richly golden "traditional" varieties such as the Beauregard, Jewel and Garnet. Yams, too, I'm afraid, neither resemble nor taste anything like the sweetpotato. They tend to be way-starchier and rarely sweet. The confusion between the two traces back to a 1930s-era promotional campaign for Southern-grown tubers, which attempted to positively differentiate them from their Northeast and East coast-grown cousins. Regardless, the best preparation of red, gold, ivory or whatever color spud floats your boat might be the simplest: roasting then peeling them. Some of the Asian (lighter) varieties tend to be drier and more conducive to moister preparations -steaming, boiling, etc. Look for firm, dry, unblemished specimens at the market, and don't be put off by dirt on the skins: they tend to spoil at a much accelerated rate once they're washed. Here at the restaurant, we're currently serving them infused with bacon cream, under grilled American Gulf Red Snapper, roasted Brussels sprouts and glazed beets. Consider these roots beyond the syrupy, marshmallowy holiday casserole why dontcha?
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Seasonal Drink
Anjou Autumn Try this fall refresher as the leaves turn and the temperature plummets. 1½ oz Jameson Whiskey  1½ oz Pear Cider or Juice ½ oz Pommeau de Normandie ½ oz Cinnamon Syrup* optional coarsely ground dried apple chips
Pour all liquid ingredients into an ice-filled cocktail shaker, cover and shake until chilled. Strain into a chilled martini glass and garnish with a pinch of dried apple chips. *Cinnamon Syrup: 1/2 c water 1/4 c sugar 1/2 cinnamon stick, broken 3 slices orange 2 whole cloves · In heat-proof container, muddle cinnamon, orange and cloves. Reserve. · Combine sugar and water. Bring to boil and pour over cinnamon mix. Cover with plastic wrap off heat and let steep 30'. · Return mixture to boil, then immediately remove, cover and steep for addiional 30 minutes. · Strain, chill and reserve.
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Charity of the Month
MOSES 715-772-3153
Each year, we accumulate donations through our wine program for four deserving organizations. Their inclusion on our list is based on their work to help preserve diverse food choices, contribute to the local community, support local farmers, and help commit to a more sustainable future. This month we highlight yet another contender: Midwest Organic & Sustainable Education Service (MOSES). The Midwest Organic and Sustainable Education Service (MOSES) helps farms and farmers transition from conventional to organic growing practices through conferences, starter kits, and hotlines. This educational non-profit was founded in 1999 to provide free and affordable assistance, but can only do so with outside support. Donations go toward such projects as the farmer-to-farmer mentoring program, the bi-monthly Organic Broadcaster Newspaper, and the farmer transition hotline, where organic farmers can talk to long-term veterans with questions about certification paperwork or soil building. MOSES also organizes the largest organic farming conference in the country, held each spring which brings together 2,600 organic advocates, farmers, educators and (even!) chefs. For more information, click here.
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Tips from the Fish and Meat Market
Wild Pheasant
This month we highlight WILD pheasant -- definitely NOT the domesticated bird I raved about in a newsletter nearly three years ago! No. This one we're serving in all its stinky glory, smacking sharply from the natural breakdown of the truly savage meat. We get these remarkably delicious game birds from actual shooting parties who bag them off the Scottish Highlands. Honestly.
While the winged Wisconsin cousins stateside are confined to their rather limited net pens and commercial feed rations, these honest-to-goodness real-deal birdies are flying, frolicking and foraging in the wilds of the wilderness, eating nuts, berries, and other wildlife. Their musculature and body mass develop in a completely different - and leaner - way, as they're constantly on the move for the next meal or simply to protect themselves. And although they require a much closer eye in the pan to prevent tough dried out meat, they reward those who can properly oversee appropriate preparation with a succulent, rich, iron-y and gamy payback on the plate.
I can't speak for the birds available in the fields and forests in this country (for they're illegal for us to serve in a commercial establishment) but those available through the shoot-'em-on-the-farm-and-take-'em-home are surely to "real" pheasant as cooped-up chickens are to their pastured brethren: bland and rather insipid. So find a time to come in and try the real McCoy before the end of the year, as we should have it around these parts until then! We link here, a reprint of an article describing a little more of the strange legal maze allowing imported wild birds on the menu but not "American" wild:The Dubious Calling Card of the Wild
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Recipe of the Month
Pan-Roasted Pheasant, Caramelized Apple Pan Sauce Serves four 4 boneless pheasant breasts, skin-on 1 shallot, minced 1½ c ¼" diced firm apple (e.g. russet, golden delicious) 2 T cognac or brandy 1 c unfiltered apple cider 4 oz butter, cubed and chilled 3 T olive oil  salt and pepper 1 T parsley, chopped 1 t chives, chopped · Heat 3 tablespoons olive oil in heavy pan just large enough to fit pheasant. Salt and pepper both sides of breasts and carefully place them skin side down in the very hot oil (you must wait until oil is hot). · When skin turns golden brown, reduce heat and cook through (on skin side only) about 10 additional minutes. Remove breasts from pan and place in warm spot to "rest" for 5-10 minutes (not in oven). · Place the uncleaned cooking pan back on the heat, and if necessary, drain off fat, but not the browned pheasant pieces on bottom of pan. Add in tablespoon of butter, and then minced shallots and apple pieces. Add touch of salt and pepper and cook 2-3 minutes until a little "soft". · Add in the cognac and carefully flambée with a match. · When flames die down, add in apple cider and scrape off bits of cooked pheasant on bottom of pan. Reduce liquid until 2-3 tablespoons remain. Add any liquid that has accumulated around resting breasts. Whisk in butter cube-by-cube, until none remains. Add in salt and pepper to taste, and chopped herbs. · Now place in the pheasant breasts to heat through and serve.
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Farm of the Month
Kings Hill Farm
812.966.2518Joel and Jai Kellum took over 850 acres of beautiful Mineral Point, Wisconsin farmland in 2008, having spent over a decade working on others' organic farms. King's Hill Farm is a full-circle sustainable operation, implementing permaculture techniques and returning to old-school farming practices, such as integrating animals into the farm cycle (for fertilizer) and even hosting bee colonies (for pollination and honey, of course!). The CSA or buying club is at the heart of their mission - providing families with affordable, wholesome food year-round, while the farm also serves as a wildlife sanctuary. Jai, a certified yoga instructor, leads a class each week for the farm crew and the Kellum family welcomes you for tours, camp outs, field trips (or volunteering). King's Hill Farm joined the Green City Market mid-season this year. Kings Hill Farm
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Yet Another Pithy Think Piece...
As we all grapple with personal traditions of cranberry preparations for the holidays, I thought this informative link might help tell a not-so-often-told story: How Stuff Works
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