News From North Pond

October 2009

Current / Upcoming North Pond Events
·      Once we all regain our composure after the dramatic Olympic announcement - don't know which way it'll go at the time of writing this - it'll be back to business this month, starting with a focus on simply dinner (and brunch) until next June. Unfortunately, lunch service here on the pond has ended for the year, after an exciting and delicious run of daytime, mid-week hours. We now hope you'll all join us after the sun goes down and wish you many happy lunches until 2010.
·      Saturday, October 3rd, will find me at the beautiful Botanic Gardens in Northbrook, participating in a day-long affair, "From Farm to Fork", a symposium put on by the AIWF chapter in Chicago. It looks to be a promising agenda, with quite the impressive roster of speakers. For  more information, click here: Farm to Fork
·    October 19, here at the restaurant we'll again be hosting the second annual Ndajee fundraiser for the Women's Global Education Project. Come help honor Chicago Public Radio's Jerome McDonnell and enjoy a special performance by the Sénéké West African Percussion Ensemble. And, hey, there might be some tasty nibbles, too! For more info, click here: WGEP at North Pond and here's a link to a recent interview: Chicago Public Radio
 
News from the Green Market
Cucurbita, aka Squash

As we move into - or, rather, continue - the cooler weather and shorter days, thoughts turn to the delicious so-called winter squashes and pumpkins now coming available at the market.  Squash hail from the same family as the cucumber - hence the Latin name - but are grouped into four sub-species, three of which typically and easily grow in our (northern) hemisphere. The main differences between these winter squashes and their summer brethren are not anything botanic, but rather a simple difference in the tenderness of the flesh and time of the harvest - zucchini and other summer varieties mature sooner, etc.

While most everyone's familiar with the acorn variety - same summer variety Pepo species, which also includes delicata  - perhaps most are not so versed in some of the equally, if not more, delicious varieties in the other groups. The Marina di Chioggia (left) or the Galeuse d'Eysines, both in the Maxima group, look full of boils and warts on their outsides, yet yield dense, rich flesh upon further investigation. They're both great for risotto or raviolo, roasted and processed when fully cooked. The Winter Luxury Pie  Pumpkin (right) is the royalty at the ball. Creamy, sweet and yes, luxurious of flesh, it has the smoothest, most velvety texture imaginable, and will turn your pies and custards from ordinary to sublime.

Some other favorites here at the restaurant include the honey and chestnut-flavored Buttercup, and the versatile creamy orange Kabocha varieties. Try one or two of these relatively unknown varieties with this month's recipe and see what you think.  And taste...
 
Recipe of the Month
Sugar Pumpkin-Parmesan Gnocchi, Toasted Sage, Hazelnuts & Apples
Serves eight

2 c Pie Pumpkin puree
¾c parmesan, grated
1    egg
1/8 t nutmeg, grated
¾ c flour, sifted
salt and pepper
 
1 stick unsalted butter, cubed
16 sage leaves, fresh, finely minced
½ c toasted, chopped hazelnuts
½ c peeled, diced apple
parsley, chopped
 
·    Place the pumpkin puree in a non-stick skillet over low-medium heat and "dry-out" the mixture by periodically turning it over in the pan with a heat-proof rubber spatula.  Do this for about ten minutes, or until the mixture begins to stick to the bottom of the pan.
·    Remove the mixture to a mixing bowl and allow to come to room temperature.
·    Add in the egg, and mix it in well. Add in the grated parmesan and nutmeg, and some salt and (white) pepper and mix in to homogenize only.
·    Add in the flour and mix in carefully, until the mixture becomes tacky.  Be careful not to overmix or the gnocchi will become gummy.
·    Working on a well-floured countertop, take a baseball-sized amount of the mixture and roll it forwards and backwards with the palms of both hands, gradually applying pressure to the center and out in either direction, in order to force the mixture into a very long sausage shape. When the "tube" is approximately ¾" in diameter, stop rolling.  Now cut 1" pieces along the entire length of the tube.
·    With a well-floured thumb, carefully make a thumbprint in each piece, to make the characteristic gnocchi. Remove the pieces to a well-floured tray and reserve for later use.
·    Bring a pot of water to the boil and lightly salt the hot water. Place a skillet over very high heat on the stovetop.
·    When very hot, quickly drop the cubed butter into it the skillet (it will immediately smoke and sizzle). When all the butter has melted and browned, the sizzling will stop.  Immediately drop in the minced fresh sage.
·    Wait five seconds and drop in the chopped toasted hazelnuts.  Give the pan a shake to coat the nuts and wait ten seconds.Now drop in the cubed apples and shake the pan again.  Season with some salt and pepper and set the pan aside.
·    Now carefully slide the gnocchi in the gently simmering water.  As they begin to float, carefully strain them out and place in a serving bowl.
·    Sprinkle the chopped parsley in the warm brown butter and then top the gnocchi with the brown butter, sprinkle some shaved parmesan on top and serve immediately.
 
News from the Fish and Meat Markets
Albacore Tuna

Each July, Albacore tuna swim thousands of miles to the northwest coast of the USA, seeking cooler waters and the sustenance living therein. Later this month, they'll do the reverse commute, heading back again to the waters off Japan. While many are familiar with the heft, nobility and flavor of the esteemed Bluefin -in fact, too many, as it is currently one of the most endangered fish in the sea-many are less so with the more moderately sized yet clean and still super-flavorful Albacore species.

American-caught Albacore is a particularly good choice, too, as it's eminently affordable and most often caught by very low impact catch methods. They're among the fastest swimmers in the ocean, which makes bycatch of other species largely unlikely. And their (relatively) smaller size assures that they contain lower mercury levels than their larger, older relatives. Albacore is also the only canned variety in the US able to be labeled "white meat" -rather than the "light" of the more vulnerable skipjack tuna.

These tuna have four torpedo-shaped loins, almost resembling pork tenderloins, and as Albacore are built for speed, the species tends to be quite lean, so when cooking at home, try to keep them moist/undercooked in the center. They're quite tender and succulent when treated this way yet are quite delicious, too, treated crudo or sashimi style. We've most recently prepared and served them with Pernod-fennel puree and a confetti of sweet bell peppers. Seek them out from your local fishmonger and try for yourself.
 
Seasonal Drink
Grape Crush
In lieu of crushing your own, try quaffing one of ours
 



1 oz Death's Door Gin
1½ oz Concord grape nectar (see below)
1 mint sprig
 
Pour gin and grape nectar into ice-filled cocktail shaker, cover and shake until chilled. Pour into empty tumbler. Rub rim of tumbler with fresh mint, and finish by garnishing cocktail with entire mint sprig.
Ahhh.

Concord Grape Nectar
1 lb Concord grapes
2 oz sugar
 
Place grapes and sugar in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer slowly for 15-20 minutes, or until fruit breaks down. (Very) briefly blend with hand mixer. Cover and rest 12-24 hours in the refrigerator.
Pass through fine strainer and reserve.
 
Farm of the Month             
Burton's Maplewood Farm
812.966.2518


Tim and Angie Burton produce maple syrup from 55 acres of sugar maples in their small town in southern Indiana. It's a craft Tim had no intention of learning when he moved to the area 10 years ago save for an invitation from a friend to help with the annual sap havest. Truly a family affair now, both son and daughter participate with their spouses in the annual "sugaring", as Tim likes to call it. And as Tim really enjoys the social aspect of the business, he started an annual National Maple Syrup Festival a couple years ago to gather people from around the area (and nation) to share stories and practices to enrich the greater sugaring community. Come visit Tim and Angie at the Wednesday and Saturday markets in the park. Or, for more info, click here.
Charity of the Month
Chicago Food Policy Advisory Council 773.486.6005

The Chicago Food Policy Advisory Council was formed in 2001 to help develop responsible policies for Chicago residents, allowing them improved access to nutritionally sound and affordable food, grown in environmentally sustainable ways. The council is comprised of members from a diverse network of food-based organizations, all sharing a concern to achieve community food security in the region. For more information, click here.
 
Watch Our Garden Grow (and some park scenery, too)


  
(Yet) Another Pithy Article / Think Piece

Here's a bittersweet piece you might have missed this summer, which took me back to another time and place...Advantage, France
 
Bruce Sherman
Chef / Partner, North Pond
773.477.5845
Green City Market * Chefs Collaborative