News from North Pond May 2008
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News from North Pond
- Beginning Tuesday, the 6th of May, we'll officially open our doors for dinner six nights each week. For those of you counting, that means we'll immediately increase our availability by 20 percent. Unbelievable in this age of skyrocketing fuel and cost-of-living expenses, we're actually expanding capacity at no ad
ditional cost to you, the potential consumer.
- And lest you've forgotten already, on Sunday May 11 we're offering our all-day salute to the Matriarch. Treat your own special mom by bringing her in to sup with us on our all-day extra-special prix-fixe menu. And even if she can't make it, maybe she loves you enough to want you to enjoy it without her! Oh, moms...
- The week after that, the Green City Market opens for its 10th anniversary year! On Wednesday, May 14th, this year's market kicks off in Lincoln Park with an even larger and more diverse cast of farmers and food artisans. And on that day I'll be co-hosting a tasting at the market with colleague/friend/mentor Chef Sarah Stegner. We'll be sampling greens and early market product for any of you choosing to join us. Please do.
- And while we're on the topic, Saturday May 17 marks the official 10-year celebration party at and for the market. Stay tuned for all the special events, speakers, and victuals surrounding this event on the Green City Market website.
- The annual National Restaurant Association (NRA) show will be held from May 17 - May 20 at McCormick Place. Since every Tom, Dick, and Harry in the industrial restaurant world converges on Chicago for this one, we're (exceptionally) opening the restaurant for dinner service on Monday, May 19 and Tuesday, May 20 and will close Wednesday, the 21st. If you've always wished we were open on Monday, here's your chance to take advantage of it.

- And that Tuesday, the 20th, we're fortunate enough to host a very unique visitor to the pond: a 25' fiberglass salmon ambassador visiting us from the Pacific Northwest to raise awareness of the extreme plight of the wild Snake River salmon fishery. Stop by the restaurant that day to learn what you can do to be part of the solution. Check out the Save Our Wild Salmon website.
- Finally, the dream is (still) alive! Cubs remain in first place, as of this writing. Yes we can!
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Tips from the Green Market Spring Herbs
May begins with an onslaught of tender s hoots and delicate, wonderfully nuanced fragrant herbs. Sorrel and lovage, two of the more foreign (to Americans) perennials, typically break ground first, alongside the much more familiar chive. Sorrel's bracing tartness plays well with spring seafood - such as wild salmon and halibut - while lovage's pungent perfume makes it a natural alongside baby carrots or tender rabbit. Chives initially push through the earth a bit more durable than they'll become later, but give us the beautiful lavender-colored blossoms at the end of their ascent. Try these sprinkled over tender spring lettuce salads.
 Mint begins early its attempted Normandy conquest of the entire garden, and each year I must resist the temptation to unfairly ban its delicious freshness entirely, as a reaction to this naturally rooted aggression. Pea tendrils shoot early and serve as a delicately delectable warning shot of the toothsome pods soon to come behind. And finally, I can't say enough good things about the flavor of the first crop of over-wintered flat-leaf parsley, either - so sweet and so earthy at once. Mmmmm. Hurry on out to the markets to try these local goodies as they arrive.
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Drink of the Month Beet-tini
2 shots Juniper Green Gin, or other gin 2 Tbl beet juice 1 Tbl mint-infused simple syrup ½ ea lemon, juiced and strained
- Combine all ingredients.
- Shake well over ice.
- Strain into martini glass.
- Garnish as desired. (At the restaurant, we use tapioca pearls.)
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Charity of the Month NeighborSpace (312) 431-9406
Each year, we accumulate donations through our wine program for four deserving organizations. Their inclusion on our list is based on their work to help preserve diverse food choices, contribute to the local community, support local farmers, and help commit to a more sustainable future. This month's selection is not currently on our list but certainly worth your consideration.
NeighborSpace works to help protect and expand Chicago's limited community-managed open space. Whether community garden or park, using partnerships with the City, the Park District and Cook County, NeighborSpace helps preserve and defend these valuable (and dwindling) natural areas and landscapes from development.
NeighborSpace Website
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Farm of the Month Bennison's Bakery (847.328.9434)
Since 1938, Bennison's Bakery has been producing freshly-made pastries, cakes, and breads in the European tradition. Forty years ago, Jory Downer's father, Guy, purchased the business from the original Bennison family and began to improve and expand the products offered. Years later, after learning the craft from Dad, Jory came aboard and continued to refine things until taking over the business and ultimately, in 2005, helping the U.S. team win the grand prize at the Baker's World Cup in Paris! Jory, and his dad, still work and oversee the bakery on a daily basis. Yet now Jory has turned his passion to artisanally-crafted breads. He sends his organic breads to the market each Wednesday and Saturday, alongside other delicious hand-crafted products available at the Bennison's table.
Bennison's Bakery Website
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Another Pithy Article / Think Piece
Still confused about when to choose local? Me too: New York Times "The Environmental Cost of Shipping Food Around the World"
And who's confused about the food rationing in mega-stores? I am: Gristmill "Sticker Shock!"
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Tips from the Fish and Meat Market Sablefish
This month we talk about the delicious (and easy-to-cook) Sablefish, a.k.a. Butterfish or Black Cod. With the majority of these fish landed off the coast of Alaska, and most of the U.S. catch exported to Japan, Sablefish is finally getting its just due as one of the undiscovered treasures in our waters. Its inherent fat content makes it easy to cook (read: difficult to overcook) and its meaty flavorful flesh makes it delicious in any number of preparations.
Often smoked and served with a popular soy or miso glaze, sablefish is ideal for grilling and can easily be paired with the robust flavors of other items usually associated with the American barbecue. Sablefish can live up to 100 years, yet reach reproductive age by only 5 or 6, and females spawn three or four times each season. The length of Sablefish's lifespan and the frequency of its spawning mean that the (Alaskan) sablefish fishery has been a relatively healthy and safe choice for the table, adding still another attractive dimension to this species. We're currently offering this beauty with warm red and green lentils vinaigrette, smoked Manila clams, and Marcona almonds.
FishWatch - U.S. Seafood Facts
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Recipe of the Month Slow-Roasted Wild Salmon, Parsley Coulis
This month, a simple recipe utilizing the over-wintered tasty parsley available at the market.
Serves 4
4 ea 5-6 oz arctic char filets, skinless 8 oz unsalted butter, softened and gently beaten 1 ea small shallot, finely diced 2 tsp vegetable oil ¼ c white wine 1 ea large vidalia (or other mild) onion (1 lb), peeled and sliced thinly 1 Tbl olive oil 2 tsp white wine vinegar 2 Tbl chicken stock or water 1.5 tsp fine sea salt ½ tsp sugar pinch finely ground white pepper 1-2 bu Italian flat leaf parsley (8 oz), leaves picked, stems reserved 3 Tbl unsalted butter, cubed
- Preheat oven to 250° F.
- Heat oil in small non-stick skillet and cook shallots 5 minutes, or until softened.
- Add wine, bring to simmer and reduce completely, about 10 additional minutes.
- Remove from heat, cool completely.
- Combine shallots with butter. Mix well to evenly homogenize and reserve.
- Place onions, oil, vinegar, stock, salt, sugar, pepper and vinegar in small pot. Place parchment over top and place over low heat for 30 minutes until softened without color.
- Place softened onion mix in blender and blend on high for 2-3 minutes until completely smooth and homogenized. Pass through fine strainer and reserve.
- In large pot of heavily salted boiling water, place parsley leaves and cook for 1 minute. Remove leaves to ice bath, chill 1 minute, then strain, dry and chop.
- Place chopped parsley in blender with 1/3 cup ice water and blend on high for 2-3 minutes until entirely homogenized. Pass through fine strainer and reserve.
- At mealtime, evenly spread 1-2 tablespoons softened butter on each fish filet. Season.
- Place on lightly oiled tray in oven for 8-10 minutes, until just barely cooked through
- Heat 1 cup reserved onion puree, and add butter. Finish with parsley puree (3/4 c) and season to taste.
- Place fish on warm plate and surround with coulis. Serve.
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Our Spring Garden

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